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Discovery explains science behind surfing waves
short by Shruti Nagpal / on Saturday, 2 January, 2016
Discovery News has, in a new video, explained the science behind big waves and how they become fit for surfing. Surfer Kyle Thiermann compares a sea wave with a sound wave and explains that its height and shape depends upon the wave's amplitude and period, where a higher period forms a more organised funnel, which becomes better for surfing.
read more at Discovery News